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LES PALMS TM ((■) oncord Les Palais timepieces, from the Royal ^W'Gold Collection. TERRIE REEVES Marketing Coordinator ANDREA BEECHER Administrative Coordinator MARY A. Chicago I L 606 II Tel: 3 1 Fax: 3 1 Detroit & Canada TRAC1 VAN GORDER. Unless he gets a midterm makeover, Bill Clinton's likely to be remembered for his jogging outfits. "Who knows when someone else can benefit from an act of kindness." ►108 105 : V^^^n^u^ ^p.r s ©1994 Levi Strauss & Co. people gtetalking about Drop these tr OU Since the invention of photography, presidents have had signature looks: Abe Lincoln had his top hat and grunge beard; Reagan had his Gumby haircut. Jed Perl takes a look 222 Television Fashion follies: Fashion on TV usually means bad fashion and worse TV. But Bryn I erl'el still declines the most challenging roles. It penetrates each strand so even the most resistant gray is covered from roots to ends. It's color that's truly healthy, so rich and shining. From Issey Miyake to Claude Mon- tana, designers are proving that down jackets have come a long way from the Michelin-man look . 1 8 115 q L We, landing a TV movie or guesting on a talk show would be nice. That's the way you dream up things like, oh, patent # 4,893,874 —the latchplate on our rear seat- belts that Michele helped design. And as a major retrospective proves, his \ ision has remained consistently bohemian. Absolutely Fabulous, actually lives up to its name 228 Music Operatic overture: I le's hailed as the baritone for the next millennium. PROTECT/IT CREAf E COLOR -\S1 Superior gray coverage Protetti hair's strength Gexlly treats even fragile hair for superior gray coverage This new creme haircolor covers gray better than before. STEVE FISHMAN, KENNEDY FRASER, TAD FRIEND, JOHN HEILPERN, GEORGINA HOWELL, GEORGE KALOGERAKIS. Trendsetters have already adopted polar chic: Naomi Campbell was spotted in a high-shine silver jacket at the Comme des Gargons show, and Sofia Coppola bundled up in a cherry red par- ka backstage at Donna Karan. After almost 20 years, he finally meets the secretive actor and finds him stranger than (Pulp) Fiction 204 Mo\ic N Flirting with danger: Quentin Taranlino's hoods shoot it out m the mean streets of Pulp Fiction; Meryl Streep gets rugged and rafts the Whitewater: and a new director debuts with a Bronx tale of her own John Powers reviews 210 Photography lice radical: When he hit the road w it h his camera in 1955, Robert Frank created a Meat masterpiece. PARIS g Excellence 6G Light Golden Brown 1 New CAPnuu^ Introducing the first creme haircolor* As thick and bltra-rich as a moisturizer, this gentle creme smoothes on, enveloping every hair strand completely, easily. ^/L'OREAL 5g EXCELLENCE Ijgfl Xj L This breakthrough formula has a patented molecule that works with hair's own structure to protect while coloring. And since the protection is built-in, fragile hair is cared for even better than before. CA£muu^ MANUFACTURER'S COUPON 12/31/94 f» 5 , 71249"11282 I CONSUMER: THIS COUPON GOOD ONLY ON PURCHASE OF PRODUCT INDICATED. ERSON Senior Market Editors GLORIA BAUME, ANNE BUFORD, WENDY HIRSCHBERG Shoe Editor JULIET SAFRO Bookings Editor PRESTON WESTENBURG Fashion Copy Editor KRISTIN VAN OGTROP Fashion Writer SALLY WADYKA Fashion Associates ANN CARUSO, CHRISTINE Di STEFANO, HOLLIE WELCH Assistants BETH BLAKE, ANDREA FERRONATO, JOANNA JACOVINI, KIMBERLY KAYE, STEPHEN WATSON Beauty and Health Beauty Editor AMY TARAN ASTLEY Beauty Writer WENDY SCHMID Health & Fitness Associate DEBORAH PIKE Beauty Assistant ANNE WEINTRAUB Features Senior Editors DAVID HANDELMAN, MARGARETTA NORTHROP, ILENA SILVERMAN Editor at Large WILLIAM NORWICH Style Editor H AM ISH BOWLES Senior Writers JULIA REED, DODIE KAZANJIAN Bookings Editor MAGGIE BUCKLEY Assistant Editor JENNIFER PIERCE Features Associate MICHAEL REYNOLDS Features Assistant SHAX RIEGLER Art Senior Associate Art Directors SHEILA JACK, PETRA LANGHAMMER, ERIC PRYOR Features Photo Editor ESIN ILI GOKN AR Assistant ALEXANDRA PENNER Art Assistant JOHN LIN Assistant to the Art Director ANDREA VAN BEUREN Production Manager CHARLOTTE BARNARD Associate SUSAN SWENSON Editorial/Art Production Manager PAUL KRAMER Associate DONNA SOLLECITO Copy C/iie/KAREN CHABRUNN THORNTON Senior Copy Editor DONNA LEVINE Copy Editors ADRIANA BURGI, LAURA WASHINGTON Research Editor PHYLLIS RIFIELD Associate VICTORIA LOWRY Assistant KEN BARON Reader Information SHIRLEY CONNELL Assistant to the Managing Editor JENNIFER OWEN Assistants to the Editor in Chief MEREDITH ASPLUN DH, HELEN YTUARTE Paris Bureau Chief SUSAN TRAIN Paris Editor FIONA Da RIN Fashion Associates ALLAN A Le SAUX, GEORGINA NEWBERY West Coast Editor LISA LOVE Associate CRYSTAL MOFFETT Consulting Editor SHELLEY WANGER Contributing Editors ANNE BASS, ROSAMOND BERNIER, CANDACE BUSHNELL. Vande| "lover's eye" miniature bracelet, circa below left, at the International Fine t Antique Dealers Show October 14 thr G1 E OCTOBER 1994 for Versus.

CA 213-272-1 196 movement and signature diamond crown. Promotion Manager ELIZABETH MATT LEMIRE Senior Designers NANCY ARNOLD. KATRINA KOTHE Junior Copywriter JENNIFER SHAKLAN Production Coordinator AUTUMN CUMMINGS Branch Offices New England 350 Madison Ave.. He has nothing to fear but fat Itself: "The worst picture was him on the beach in Hawaii— that bobbing belly."— Mary Matalin. The perils of being unwed and childless in the Third World: A 35-year-old single AP reporter kidnapped in Somalia told her captors that she was 23, married, and the mother of two to gain their sympathy (she was released after 20 days) The ultimate therapy-junkie's-revenge novel: Lawrence David's Need (Ran- dom House), in which a female shrink's husband unwittingly cheats on her with one of her patients Pit bulls who have outlived their fighting usefulness being released by gang boys into the streets of Bridgeport, Connecticut, and terrorizing the town ....

The recent Paris shows were filled with exquisite tailoring and heightened femininity-heralding a revival of the real art of fashion. lang to Ralph Lauren, from Hollywood to Seventh Avenue, is suddenly thinking greens 422 In this issue 424 Vogue's last look As gold weaves back into the spotlight, the snake bracelet with its enduring shapes and textures— is charming its way onto arms everywhere »8 COVER LOOK Blueprint for cool weekend dressing: a warm turtleneck sweater and the sparkle of sequined jeans matched with one of the new down-filled parkas, on model Kirsty Hume. Russ Rymer reports from the broken heart of the country 372 A chemical solution? Sports fans like Donatella Versace, for example, load up zen in the same attitude that had defined him in Fever— the man in the lite suit and platform heels, a human clock forever stuck at four, with I right arm pointed vertically at the ceiling, his left diagonally at the nee floor.

Photographed by Steven Meisel 328 Tailor-made Ever since they started stitching the curves back into fashion, five singular designers— from Belgian bad boy Martin Margiela to English eccentric Vivienne Westwood— have been influencing the shape of things to come. (For more hot parkas, see "Get Down," page 115.) Echoing the easy glamour: Chanel Creme Lipstick in Midnight Red and Intensites Braises Basic Eye Colour in Champagne/Beige/Henna. [f you think the new abortion pill will end debate once and for all. Laura Fraser investigates 374 Spare change With her sleek ami sinuous designs, decorator Barbara Ban) is bunging a new look to Los Angeles. 10A-9P ft ■ H TH[ WWf«C( « W*l »u»Kinm limiti o MAVMAt WET LONDON Cindy is wearing Color Stay" 1 Lipcolor in Sienna ? \ ■ ■ * — - ESTEE LAUDER The one makeup you can take anywhere just went oil-free. 'CI K OCTOIi KIl li)«)1 rebound for glory Nik Cohn wrote the story that became Saturday Night Fever and turned John Travolta into a seventies icon.

By quality craftsmanship with refined design, the Madison Collection marks one of the rare instances where both style and substance meet. Personal expression is the foundation of all dancing. The fluidity, beauty and grace that seem the birthright of the ballerina belie the never- ending struggle to master the body. The miracle of bones and muscles that bring to life an emo- tion. (To see Bill in context, visit American Politicians: Photographs from 1843 to 1993 opening this month at New York's Museum of Modern Art.) Hollywood's Florence Nightingale watch When Sharon Stone stuck her hand down the throat of a choking non- celebrity, she kicked off a new trend: celebrity savior PR ops. V O G 1 E ( ) ( : T ( ) B K R S^IV.-^ ^ Introducing SPA SKINCARE with Vitamins & Minerals ELIZABETH ARDEN Discover a new way of life for your skin. healthy looking skin GAYFER'S MOBILE • MAISON BLANCHE • CASTNER KNOTT CO.* MCALPIN'S CINCINATTI • THE JONES STORE CO.

MACK Director of Public Relations and Communications P AULWILMOT Public Relations Associate KATHRYN GRACE MEADOWS Editorial Advisor LEO LERMAN JAMES TRUMAN Editorial Director 54 VOGUE OCTOBER 1! Jazz ensembles, leading ladies, AND THE MADISON COLLECTION FROM COACH son Collection, handcrafted of fine pebble-textured leather, features signature brass hardware and is available in a rich array of colors. 1-800-695-8000 South Coast Plaza, Garden Stale Plaza and Old Orchard Center I opens October 7). STYLE t Dance is the only art in which we, our- selves, are the 'essence' of which it is made. Each is water-resistant, and comes with a 3-year limited warranty. They feel they know him, and if push comes to shove, they're more likely to stick with someone they know."— Roderick Hart, author of Seducing America, How Television Charms the Modem Voter. The chilling return of the megamerger: If Seagrams and Time Warner meld, will we get 7/me in a bottle? HBO is betting that male Jocks will tune in (but since Lucky Vanous of diet Coke fame Is appearing, women will watch, too) The last legacy of grunge: beaded Native American necklaces worn close to the skin, under fall's new glamour Just remember: Recuse yourself, and burn your diaries. Everything you need every day for clean, fresh, glowing skin.

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The jacket, a floral arrangement in cut velvet, 4 to 16, 255.00 Wide-leg pants, P, S, M, L, 195.00 Rayon velvet with a luxurious touch of silk. Pamela Lopez keeps score 136 Disco kid Is the world ready for the return of spangled bodysuit and neon nylon? Hair, Garren of Garren, New York, at Henri Bendel; makeup, Francois Nars. Evening takes shape in illusion lace and stretch black wool. LANA MARKS FOR LANA OF LONDON AT SAKS FIFTH AVENUE ^) 1-800-347-9177 MONDAY TO SATURDAY 9 A. Vanessa Friedman looks at a handful of "high priestesses" who imbue their followers with the fervor of religious devotion 302 Beauty clips By Amy Astley 304 Beauty answers In the clear: Acne has long been associated with adolescence. 306 Beauty bets Black magic: Red may have returned to beauty's fore, but black is beckoning as makeup artists give lips and nails a beguiling dose ofdark-as-it-gets drama 382 Under construction Push it up. Gwen Ifill fills in the blanks 238 Books Secrets of the past: Tim O'Brien reveals one man's darkest secrets; Neal Gabler gets the scoop on Walter Winchell; and Lorrie Moore res isits the struggles of adolescence. • Up to 18% reduction in the a p pearance of fine lines and wrinkles . Fruition is dermatologist and ophthalmologist-tested. c «» She doesn't always get the credit for making a Saturn safe, but Michele isn't complaining. And besides, just look at that ritzy crowd she gets to hang out with over there. Driver's Passenger's irteen minutes, ;fied with l/10th of a second.

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